DP Jerez SKL, first impressions

Ad in collaboration with DP Saddlery LP and Deuber&Partner

The second saddle from Deuber&Partner is on the writing block today, you all voted for me to write about the DP El Campo first, so here’s the link to that post! This time, I’ll give you my first impressions on my dream saddle, the DP Jerez SKL. Let’s go!

If you are familiar with the legendary DP Bückenburger or Amarant, you might recognise the classical, historical design of the seat.  It’s design was inspired by the original Baroque Saddle from the Marstall-Museum of the Princely School of Riding Art in Bueckeburg (Germany), and the Jerez features the same design, in a little more lightweight version.

The specs of my Jerez SKL:
Seat size: S1
Saddle leather: Havanna with antique finnish
Seat leather: Black aspen
Flocking: Medium
Channel width: Wide
Border tooling: G51 Small

Girth: Size 4, matching colours

Many are unfamiliar with this style of baroque saddle – and I fully understand why! In a world where you often ride English OR Western, the baroque saddles and tack often go under the radar for many, and end up looking like a proper curiosity.

The baroque saddles are often used for historical European riding, the “as old-school as you get it” way, for the Academic Art of Riding, Working Equitation, spanish/portugese traditional riding etc. In my experience, they have less opinions about your seat than a normal English saddle. What I really enjoy is that they allow you to, and almost empower you to, move and sit correctly. To some, it might feel a little weird to not have any support for especially your lower leg, but it’s something you get used to very fast. I love it!

The Jerez tips my pelvis just a tad backwards, which is something that helps me a considerable amount as a rider, as I tend to tip forward as a rider. Tipping forward ends up blocking my hips, and the movement from my horse. In many saddles I often feel like I am encouraged to sit straight up and down, and I end up fighting a little against the saddle. This happens far less in baroque saddles, and the unique seat of my Jerez tilts me in a far better direction. The saddle soft to sit in, but has enough structure to properly support my seat.

The picture below is one of my recent favourite pictures of my seat – Lillen is just happily trotting along and doing his thing, looking huge but nothing fancy… But I can see such an immediate and massive change in my posture. It is of course, for a stiff rider like me, a huge work-in-progress, and lots still need to improve – but I can SEE how this saddle allows me to get my pelvis where it has to be. I cannot wait to experiment with this, and learn how to sit better, and become a better rider.

If you don’t spend lots of time analysing my posture (I know I do, haha, but I hope you have better things to spend time on!), you might not see the “dramatic” change. But I feel it. And I love it!

In terms of fitting, it sat just perfect on Lillens back. Perfect. We’re still getting the saddle fitter out, of course, but once we put it on his back, it was as if the saddle makers at DP had made it just for him. Lillen really enjoys it. Brego, who got to model the Jerez and the matching bridle set (I had no idea they could use the black aspen leather as padding for the bridle and reins but they did! And it look SO GOOD) for some of these pictures, also felt amazing. It’s really a saddle that WANTS you to succeed as a rider.

I really like the feel of the black aspen leather too.

That’s all I have for you today about my first impressions on the saddle, as with the El Campo I’m planning on doing a review at 6 and 12 months too, and I cannot wait to see how we progress with these amazing saddles. Cue pictures!

And as you can see on the last picture there… Mother Nature had the audiacity to rain on my Jerez! So I had to run indoor with it (and the camera, haha!). I am planning lots of photoshoots in the near future.

Thank you so much, DP Saddlery LP and Deuber & Partner, I cannot wait to see where this saddle might take us!

DP El Campo, first impressions

Ad in collaboration with DP Saddlery LP and Deuber&Partner

If you follow me on Instagram, you might have noticed something super exciting just happened – my tack from Deuber&Partner just came in, and it’s hard to describe properly how in awe I am! Let’s take a closer look at what was delivered to our front porch!

In the huge 57lbs/25kg package, that’s been in the works for months, was two saddles, matching bridles and reins, girths and stirrup leathers. I asked you on Instagram which saddle you wanted me to write about first, and most of you chose the El Campo with flower tooling. So here I am, ready to tell you all about it, and my first impressions of it!

The specifications of this saddle is:
Seat size: S1
Saddle leather: Havanna with antique finish
Seat leather: Nappa brown
Flocking: Medium
Channel width: Wide
The saddle has flower tooling along the border, as well as tooling on the cantle. Both are considered extra upcharge, but hello sexy! *hearteyeemoji*

Girth: Size 4, matching colours and tooling

When in proper use, I will use a thin, English dressage saddle pad underneath, to protect the saddle from sweat, dust and horse hair.
We’ve chosen to have the stirrup leathers underneath the saddle flap for now.

When I first started talking to Barbara from DP Saddlery LP, we decided fairly quick on the Jerez SKL – being my dream saddle and we had no doubts it would be an amazing match to the drafts. But I was so indecisive on which saddle would be the second one. I wanted something different than the baroque saddle, as I don’t always ride strictly baroque/historical dressage. Sadly, with drafts having their abnormally large shoulder blades in all the “wrong” angles, English dressage saddles are rarely able to wrap around the horse as they are designed to do on… dressage horses. Thus leading to a not-always-optimal fit for drafts.

So after a lot back and forth, I asked about the El Campo, and Barbara sent me a photo of perhaps (and excuse my language here) the sexiest saddle I’ve ever seen. Yes. YES! It’s built more like an English-type saddle, but on the same flocking as the baroque saddles, and after I saw the saddle sit beautifully on a very wide Irish cob, I was sold.

Now, we have yet to have our saddle fitter look at it, so if you think anything is off in the photos fitting-wise, don’t worry, we will have everything double checked! 🙂 But they survived ten minutes of childish excitement and some modelling, haha!

As I mentioned, there was also matching bridles and reins in the package, and here you can see the bridle and reins that match the El Campo! If you look close, the noseband and reins have the same tooling as the saddle and the attention to detail is outstanding. I’m just floored by the fact that they even had the opportunity, and took the time out of what I assume is a super busy schedule, to make a bridle to Lillen’s measurements. Amazed. I am simply amazed. They were even able to provide reins in Lillen size.

I am planning on doing an update review at 6 and 12 months. But! One of the most asked questions still has to be answered here: How does it feel to sit in it?

The seat is deep, but still open, which provides you with the ability to “move around” in the saddle to change your seat aids, without losing all support. It’s soft in both the seat and by the knee rolls, but there’s still lots of structure to support your seat. The twist in the seat feels narrow, but is not sharp, and widens a little towards the cantle. This helps me a lot, as I am able to tilt my pelvis a bit backwards (my personal biggest issue seat-wise is falling forward, blocking the horse with my stiffened hips). In some ways it does feel a lot like English dressage saddles, but the seat is far more open and allows for more adjustments and better communication.

The knee rolls are attached with velcro, which is a huge plus to me, as I have long thighs and can adjust them to fit my slightly awkward body. That’s all for now, will update blog. Cue picture spam!

All wrapped up and ready for its next ride!
Thank you so much, DP Saddlery LP and Deuber & Partner, I cannot wait to see where this saddle might take us!

Video: Halter transformation

Now, it’s Brego’s fault he grew his head so big, but it surely is not his problem that normal tack doesn’t fit! After I learned to craft in leather, I learned to appreciate his big brain. Before that… Gosh. When obtaining even a basic halter turned into an international adventure, or a costly custom fit purchase… Not so much! Although I usually make tack from scratch, modifying tack to fit is also one way to go about it.

The halter didn’t get fully botched, halters without throatlatches are often sold and marketed as “grooming halters” (worked in the industry, sold quite a lot of them!), so consider it a well thought through transformation. I’m very happy with how it turned out!

Original halter by Hööks.


Video: My WEIRD saddle pad collection

Hey! Look at me go!

It’s been requested for quite some time that I should make a few YouTube videos, and as I also realised I really need to become better at editing videos… Yup, I willingly buckled under pressure. Months ago I asked you what videos you wanted, and the big majority wanted me to show off my saddle pad collection. So here it is!

It feels a bit awkward, and it truly isn’t the most exciting video you will spend time watching – but then again I’m not the most exciting person in the world. So it’s a bit of a match there. For more info, there’s quite a chapter in the video description on YouTube, so if you have some reindeer related questions, that’s probably where you will find the answers!

Be nice, m’kay, as I have written a lot of times – I’m doing this partly because I want to become better at video editing, which kinda implies I have yet to master the skill 😛


How I grew my Instagram

Every Q&A I do, this question pops up. Seeing as my studies today require me to spend seven hours reading a beginner guide to blogging (and a WordPress step-by-step guide), I decided to procrastinate and write this blog (on my WordPress site) instead. Sorry, professor, I have more interesting things to do!


Building your social media profiles, and Instagram in particular, is really trendy at the moment. I’m not going to lie – a lot of people are growing up with the sole purpose of becoming “influencers” as a profession. I’m not all too sure what I think about that, and especially considering a lot of adults to not know enough about this influencer-thing to guide their children and teens to pursue their dreams in a safe way, but here I am anyways – to give a few tips and tricks.

Growing your Instagram account require quite some dedication, and some in-depth knowlege about the platform. I’m not going to go on with some deep level lecturing here, but I do have a checklist that you might want to have a look at – if your goal is to grow an audience. Just take a moment to think about why you would like to grow your account first.


1. Find your thing

If you want to grow an audience, you must find out what you are basing your growing on. If “your thing” is you – great! But you might want to look into a niche that represents you. To me, it’s been horses and animals – and more obviously, Lillen. People must have some thing to grab a hold on, to remember you by. By representing a niche, you are also making sure the people who follow you, are interested in what you are doing. People will come for your niche, and stay for your personality. Show both of them.

2. Learn how the platform (Instagram) works

“Thanks, captain obvious” but YES. You need to know how to upload, tag people, hashtag properly, mention, geo tag, upload stories, use story stickers and other features. Within the “learn instagram” thing, you must also know more about how the algorithm works. Me explaining this would enter this whole “deep level lecturing” I promised I wouldn’t get into, but some good old Google-Fu should help you understand the algorithm better. Remember that sources must be as up-to-date as possible, as algorithms change frequently.


3. Create content

Remember that 3 second rule, which prohibits bacteria to touch your food for 3 whole seconds whilst you scramble together to pick your toast up from the floor? The 3 second thing is a thing on Instagram too. Different sources says different things, but the ones I hear the most, is that you have 3 seconds or less to catch someones attention on the explore page. The cute photo of your cute bay horse, is not likely to be very interesting. I’m awfully sorry to say it, but it’s how it works. Remember that your feed should look wholesome too, not just each and every photo.

4. Learn photography, and team up with photographers

You just have to. For a lot of situations, your phone is all the equipment you need, if you have some skills and can use it.


5. Accept you must spend time

Post when your followers are online, post frequently, and accept that growing an audience is not something you can do with 5 minutes engagement daily. Okay, maybe YOU can, but most of us certainly cannot. Reply to comments, answer DM’s, comment on other people’s posts. Be online. Your account is not going to grow itself.

6. What do you enjoy?

Have a look at the content you follow and the people you love within your niche. What are they doing that you enjoy so much? Step out of your fan girl bubble, and analyze their content. Look at their numbers, see what does well, and try to learn why. Not because you are going to copy them, but because understanding what’s trending in your niche is going to be a big advantage.


7. Numbers

If  you are going to care about the numbers, you must care about the numbers throughout the entire process. From planning a photoshoot, to executing it, to making the post and writing the caption… Numbers, numbers, numbers. To make it even worse – the numbers really don’t care about you. If your goal is to grow, you should spend time learning about the benchmarks in your niche, and set some goals and plans for where you want your account to be.

The hard part, is to use your analytic part of the brain to be aware of the numbers, yet not allow the numbers to make you feel bad about your content. Numbers are purely a source of statistics, and the biggest fight content creators go through, is to not take numbers personal.

The past seven days I’ve lost about 500 followers, and that is an average for me. Is it personal? Of course not! These are 500 individuals that throughout their day has been exposed to my content and thought… “nahh, this isn’t for me anymore”. Just like you and I do, when we see something on our feed that just isn’t appealing to us.

Caring about numbers does not equal being obsessed with them. You must be aware them. And if being aware of the numbers is causing your mental health to struggle, please please please stop, or take a break from the pressure of growing. You can upload, and enjoy what you do and create, without pressuring yourself to grow. Becasue trust me; sitting on your fancy throne means nothing if it’s the most uncomfortable chair in the world!


8. Have fun

Sounds cliche, but if you’re online and posting, and you’re not in a good state of mind, people will see it. Posting content and growing your Instagram account will for most of us just be a fun side-thing in our life, and if it ever stops being fun, we should all sit down, have a look at it, and figure out why. Is it your approach to social media you don’t like, or is it what content you are creating? Settling for not growing your account, and just having fun, might be more important to you – and who knows? Maybe you having fun will be an advantage anyways?

And that’s about it. 

At least if I’m not deep diving into each and every topic. A little bit of strategy, a little bit of numbers, having fun and being yourself. It’s all up to you, and the algorithm.


I’m no guru and I don’t pretend to be, but people have asked me this question a lot, and although I keep saying you could Google-Fu some really good answers, some seem to really want hear my opinions on it.

I’ll now go back in a weak attempt to finish today’s chapters, I have one tiny one left and it’s about how to make money off your blog. It sounds interesting, but I suspect it will not be very up to date, nor relevant, for my niche at least 😛

Have a great day! Stay safe, wash your hands, and don’t sneeze. Oh, and don’t scratch your healing tattoo, if you have one.




Throwback: March 2019

Sometimes I find myself looking through old photo folders on my laptop, and I thought it could be interesting to take a trip through memory lane, for March 2019.

_DSC5488We had some family fun in the snow!

_DSC6570Diego had some really, really nice moments in the lunge.

_DSC6666And.. uhm.. some interesting moves too

_DSC5858We had another snowfall, and Brego did his ever first canter in a field. Proud!

IMG_2364I had my very first shoot with Klesarven, without a horse. I was sooo uncomfortable!! I definitively needed my horse to feel safe in front of the camera, haha!

_DSC7279We visited the local nature reservoire in the sunset. Amazing!

_DSC6112We had yet another snowfall. And I got new boots!

_DSC6876I made Brego a bridle and I was incredibly proud of it. He broke it beyond repair only one month later.

_DSC7096I was also able to take Diego for a ride in the “local” riding arena, to ride for my trainer. We left in a hurry and I forgot I had taken the noseband off my bridle the day before. We looked a bit alternative and I wish I didn’t take my ice blue jacket. Also my boots were still so stiff I struggled to ride with them, haha!

Do you look back at old pictures too? I realise this blog is almost all Diego pictures, whops!


How to keep your feet warm

This is actually a question I recieve quite often! How do I keep my feet warm when I’m out and about in the snow, and several degrees below freezing point? How do I keep warm when I’m “stuck” on horseback for hours in icy wind and temperatures? Well… here’s my tips for you all!


I very rarely get cold feet. Literally, and figuratively speaking, haha. So how do I do it? What sorts of frozen landscape, insider information do I have? Nothing awfully intersting, but a tiny undertanding of physics will help you tremendously. Which I always find a little funny, becasue I have surprised several physicists with my step-by-step tutorial on how to keep your feet warm.

The first thing you have to remember, is that water and moisture freezes. “Well, duh, yes!” you might say, put on warm socks and shoes, get in the car and proceed to blast warm air down on your footsies. Whops!

What do we do when we get super warm? We sweat! What is sweat? (The answer is moisture, but I’m sure you noticed where I was going with my rhetorical questions.)

The second thing you have to remember, is how we are supposed to get warm. Yes, yes, wool socks and winter shoes – but what is this magical thing that makes your feet stay the correct temperature? Is it the wool? Is it the shoe? What are your feet supposed to warm up, in order to maintain warmth?

The air. It’s the air inside your shoe, that warms up and keeps you warm. So what happens when we buy shoes the correct size and fill them up with warm socks? There’s no room for air!


So, after that long and tiresome chapter, I actually do have a list for you.

  1. Buy winter shoes one or two sizes too big. More room for that zupah important air!
  2. Don’t fill your shoe with fabric. One thin pair of wool socks, and one pair of slightly thicker wool socks, should be more than enough.
  3. Wool. Yes, wool. And if you are allergic to wool, choose a thin pair of 100% cotton to keep close to your skin, and then a fat nice pair of wool socks outside of that.
  4. Natural fibres insulate. Plastic and rubber does not. If it’s cold, choose winter shoes with as little rubber and plastic on it as possible (well, a rubber sole is needed, but not an entire coating of rubber around your foot). Natural fibres also provide better “breathing” abilities.
  5. Purchase a nice, insulating wool sole to stop the cold temperatures from travelling from the ground and into your shoe.
  6. Bring extra socks. We all break a sweat at times. Shit happens! If you feel your feet getting icky, change into a dry pair of socks immediately to stop the moisture in your shoe from getting cold.
  7. And if you forgot extra socks, open up your shoe. Out with the icky air, in with new dry air! If you’re wearing those thick, insulated outerwear pants, pull them up so you get proper fresh air down into your shoes. Yeah, you’ll look silly for five minutes, but it does help!
  8. Do something about your stirrups. Metal against shoe is one certain way to transfer the cold air into your foot. You can buy little stirrup hoodies you can attach to them, to make sure your feet are protected by the wind. Plastic stirrups, stirrups with rubber coating, no stirrups etc. Better than metal stirrups!
  9. Have extra shoes. Don’t sit with your -20 degree (celsius, -4 F) capable shoes in your comfy 20 degree (celsius, 60 F) car. If you’ll be walking around a lot in the stable, put on a pair of thinner shoes. Do. Not. Sweat! Treat your feet like your upper body, when you feel too warm, take layers off.
  10. Getting cold on a long hack? Jump off and walk alongside your horse! Great bonding opportunities, and it gets the circulation going.

I have to let you know that the shoes pictured aboove here was sponsored and gifted to me by UnderNull, but they are incredibly warm, and makes for such a good example of what I mean. They are made of wool felt, and are leather covered at the bottom. Super warm, resilient to mud and dirt, and comfortable to use when I’m i.e. working in the stable.

The shoes pictured there are the Femund 922 shoe, and it’s probably the warmest winter shoe I’ve owned. And I’ve been through “them all”, haha! I also have the Nesnalobben boot, a traditional Norwegian wool felt boot. It’s my dream winter shoe! You might remember I edited them onto Lillen’s feet x)


Did you learn something new? Or do you have any other tricks that keep you warm on your footsies, no matter what? Share in the comments to help freezing riders out!


A beginners guide to leather crafting, pt 3

Okay! The newbie is here to instruct other newbies – no offence to us all, but I guess the reason you’re here is to either learn something new or to judge my newbie skills, so I figured we’d just get it sorted right away! This post is number three, you can read part one and two by clicking the links. If you asked me a question and I didn’t answer it now; I already have earlier! Or someone did too, and it is worded a little bit different.


Most of the questions I recieved I have already answered, but I’ll do a quick summary here for the most popular questions, and add which part you can find a better answer on! 🙂 Skip to the next paragraph if you want to read new questions and new answers.

Where do I buy leather and tools? I buy it from Skinnlåven, a rather local, norwegian store. I do not buy big supplies form abroad. I can promise you theres a niche store (or several) in your native country you can buy from! I recommend a little FBI-ing and a little kung-google-fu, and I’m sure you’ll find a good store. Better answer in part 1.

What tools to I REALLY need to get started? Sadly, as leather isn’t mendable without tools, you kinda need them all. This is why I recommend everyone to take a beginners course (like a two day noobie course, you’d be surprised they exist!) if you’re curious, as what tools you really really need depends on what you want to make. With a little experience, you are capable of choosing for yourself what you can postpone purchasing. Better answer in part 1.

What will it cost me to get started? I like comparing this to when you start any other expensive hobby. You’ll need a lot of basic equipment and it’ll be quite the cost to get started. I wrote more about this in part 2.

What project is recommended as a fist-project for someone who has never done this before? Belts! And dog collars. One-buckle projects. Bridles are a bit fidgety. However, if you want to practice your sewing, a double stitched halter is one hell of a way to become an expert sewer in one project. Some swearing guaranteed, haha! Answered in part 1.

Now on to the questions I haven’t answered before!


  • Do you need special needles and thread?

Yes! Your leather supplier will be able to guide you into the needles you’ll need. A short explaination is that leather crafting needles are usually blunt, because you’ve already punctured a hole in the leather before sewing it. The thread we use is waxed and sticky, and there’s plenty of brands to choose from. The ideal is the “tiger thread”, but it also cost half my salary. Currently, on my budget, I’ve chosen a rather cheap synthetic thread, and it’s more than good enough for my use! Some will frown over that statement; but remember, the most important factor is that you are satisfied with your quality, and that you craft things that doesn’t break. I’d rather spend my money on decent leather.

  • Tips for lefties?

Most leather crafting equipment are not designed for the right handed, but are the unisex answer to left/right-handedness. Being ambidextrous myself (I’m not right nor left handed, I use both), I don’t have an issue with any of my tools, but there’s one or two tools I can think of that are either left or right handed. Luckily for all lefties, left hand versions of those tools aren’t hard to find, so I think the only tip you need is “tell your supplier” and you’ll be on the right (or left?) track immediately.

  • Can you make horse tack from vegan “leather”?

It’s perfectly possible to create horse tack with biothane and similar vegan products. Myself, I’m not very fond of the finish, and you have less shaping options (as biothane comes in set widths, and my leather comes in one huge piece). But if you’re vegan and/or want to experiment with vegan options, I’d say go for it! You might need other tools than what we use for leather crafting though. Please just remember that these vegan options are plastic. Not that leather is super enviromentally friendly – but plastic isn’t either.


  • How do you punch holes in the leather? How do you water proof the leather? How do you make the edges so smooth? How do you evenly shave the leather thinner?

I did get a lot of “how do” questions, and firugred I’d smush them down into one answer. All of these questions will be answered when you start learning, but the answer is sharp knives, sharp awls, a piece of bone/wood/plastic + friction (for the edges). If you’re an equestrian you already know how to waterproof it; bring out your tack cleaning soap and fats and get to it! 🙂

  • When making a bridle, which part of it do you recommend starting with?

This is very personal! And not in the private kind of personal, but it’s very personal what you prefer. I start with the cheekpieces and the crownpiece, and then it’s a little bit up to what style of bridle I’m going for.

  • What leather is best to work with, where can it be found, how do I make sure the quality is good enough and is there a more reasonable priced leather suitable for newbies on a budget? Does price really affect the quality?

Different parts of the cow has a different quality, will have a different price, and be suited for different projects. Think meat! Some parts are just tastier and yummier, and some parts work best as slow cooked soup ingredients. Your leather supplier should be able to guide you to find the best newbie on budget alternative they have. I usually purchase the front part of the cow, it’s not the absolute best quality leather, but my supplier often have some really nice pieces in, so I’m able to compromise.

  • Can anyone do it? Are there any free resources you an learn from?

Lots of free resources! YouTube is filled with tutorials, and you’ll find detailed instructions, craft-alongs and tips and tricks for making almost anything. Bags, wallets, belts, bridles – you name it, they have it!


  • Is it easy to make your own reins?

Yes – if you have thick enough leather. My 3-3,5mm leather is too light weight to be suited as reins, unless I do something to add weight to them, and I am not going to invest in thick enough leather. I find it much easier to just purchase the length I need 🙂

  • What do you use to apply dye to the leather?

A dot of sheep pelt is actually incredibly handy to use when dying. For intricate colour details, you can use a brush, or special sponges or fluffy brushes. Your leather supplier will have many options, and if you let them know what your project is, they’ll most likely be happy to help you find the best alternaitve for you!

  • Is there any step that is easy to forget, but is important?

I’d like to say no, as you have to do step one in order to be able to do step two. But the biggest mistake I have ever done, and somehow manage to still do every once in a while, is to put the buckle on the wrong way and spend an hour sewing. Gosh. And then you have to cut everything apart, get the buckle the right way around and then re-sew everything 😛 Important step: Double check that your buckle is on the right way hahaha


  • How do you not get your hands sore?

I do get my hands sore! But slow and steady wins the race. Don’t sew more than you are comfortable doing, your fingers will soon grow extra skin to better handle the hard work. Be more careful about your tendons – if they’re sore, take it calm. You don’t want long term sore tendons, they’ll screw you over in your day-to-day life too, haha.

  • Biggest NO NO?

Don’t sew across the leather, only along the length of it. Especially important if you are working on a project you need to NOT fall apart, like horse tack and equipment for big dogs. I like to say “think toilet paper”. All those tiny dots going across? Perfect for ripping apart. Yes, sewing makes the leather stick together, but you are also creating a lot of holes. Those holes will rip.

  • Can you do leather crafting with one hand?

I think this will be quite a challenge sadly; and I don’t imagine myself being able to do anything I am doing, with one hand less. Then again; I have never had to try. Depending a little on how you, if you at all, can use your paralyzed hand/arm (to support, or lean against the project) you might be able to look into working with thinner leather for non-heavy duty work, but the thick leather I work with is incredibly hard strength wise.

  • How do you avoid making the wrong measurements?

You don’t. You’ll mess up, and you’ll take things apart, or you’ll just measure better the next time 🙂

Okay! That was 14 more questions answered for you all! I see that the returning answer is “ask your supplier” and “practice your best kung google-fu”, but you’d be surprised how happy people are in terms of sharing their knowledge.


A beginners guide to leather crafting pt. 2

If you read part 1, you know what we’re doing! I’m back, you’re back, let’s do this! You can read part 1 here – if you sent me a question and I didn’t answer it, it’s because I already have written about it!


  • How do you make padding to go underneath the noseband and over the neck?

For padding, you need another kind of leather. This is funny, because in Norwegian there are two different kinds of word for this: “lær” and “skinn”. “Lær” is that thick piece of leather we make equipment of. “Skinn” is the thin, floppy leather we make jackets and furniture of. You will need a sturdy piece of that floppy leather. There are many different kinds of floppy leather, I think I have goat for mine. Anyhow, go to your supplier and ask about recommendations for your use. Floppy leather can be dyed with the same products as normal leather, or can be bought pre-coloured.

To make padding, you must find something soft to use as a padding. I have previously used a piece of felted wool (actually sometimes only this, for certain neck pieces), but you can use neoprene straps and pretty much anything squishy here. You need some clamps to keep everything in place – so you wrap your squishy in the floppy, clamp it to the not-floppy, and stitch away!

10/10 for explanation. I know. “Floppy leather” was too good not to use. I’m sure there’s a more proper word for it in your own language.


  • Where can I find hardware for dog collars/harnesses?

My leather supplier have this in their store – smaller buckles, D-rings, chains to make half-chokers etc. If your supplier doesn’t have this in stock, chances are they can order for you.

  • How do you attach ornaments?

It depends on the ornament. A lot of decorative ornaments are actually made for tack, and usually come with a logical way of attaching it. Some goes in with a screw, some you need to hammer in place etc. If you have something that isn’t made for tack, like perhaps a piece of jewellery, you just need to be creative and stitch it on somehow. Bear in mind that ornaments not made for tack, might break very easily.


  • Exactly how expensive is it?

I get that it’s a lot of curiosity about the exact costs, so I went to my local suppliers page and pretended to order all the tools I use on a regular basis. Ordering online from other online stores is also a possibility, but importing these kinds of things to Norway can get pretty pricey too. It totalled to about $500 – at least when I chose basic beginner tools. You can get knifes that alone cost $500, which is why it’s hard to state exactly how much you will need to pay. I have bought most of it with a discount – and some things you can probably get secondhand.

That sum is not included dyes, thread, leather or hardware. The pieces of leather I buy are usually about $200-$300 a piece (lasts for 5-10 products, depending if they are Lillen-sized or normal horse sized). You can buy cheap thread, which is more than good enough for beginners – for $15. 100g of thread might even out-last your piece of leather. Good quality thread can cost 10 times more.

Dyes vary in price, all depending on what brand (cheap brands usually do just as well as expensive ones) and how much you want. Hardware can be anything from $1-$2 pr buckle/ring, to $15-$20, here it really depends on material, size and quality. For horse tack, accept that buying good quality is a must. It sucks to spend hundreds on leather and hours to craft, just to have the buckle break because you tried to cut down on costs – it’ll take a lot of time to un-do and re-do all your stitches to change that damn buckle.


  • What’s your nr. 1 favorite tool?

I have a pair of pliers that makes it a bliss to prepare the holes for stitching. Instead of poking every hole with an awl or a hammer it with a “fork”, I just zap down the edge of the leather and every single hole gets perfect. It makes for a very pretty seam! This only works on the edges of the leather, though, so having tools and knowledge to use the awl is essential, because if you are sowing further in on the piece of leather, that pair of pliers ain’t gonna manage. The pliers are probably my most expensive tool, but worth its weight in gold (kinda).

  • What is the trickiest thing to make, in your opinion?

This son of a fuck:


In English they are called “loops”, in Norwegian smygestol. A smygestol directly translates to “crawling chair”, so there’s your fun fact of the day! Most easily avoided by always making sure to use “double” buckles, so you can tuck the leather strap back into the buckle, instead of having to make any loops. Fuck loops.

  • How do you get the dimensions right on each little piece so that the finished tack is the right size?

If you’re crafting for your own horses, just measure the tack you already have. Remember to measure all the parts in-between the buckles, because if I tell you that Brego is 110cm in-between the corner of his mouths (over the neck), you would have no idea where to put the side pieces or where to end the neck piece. I do have this standardized form I can use if anyone wants to order i.e. a bridle size pony – I don’t know where it’s from and the measurements are just basic, but it’s nice to have.


  • Once you have all the tools, will it be cheaper to make a piece of tack yourself, than to just buy it from a random store?

No. No, it won’t be. Especially not if you use high quality leather for your own tack, and buy tack from rather cheap stores.

The more modern design you want, the harder it is to make, and the more techniques you will need to learn.

  • “Things I wish I knew before I started working on leather”

Well, that’s quite the question! I didn’t know a whole lot before I got into it, and my introduction to the craft was through a beginners course – so I basically learned “everything” through a professional – and that was a very nice experience.

However, one thing that’s worth mentioning – you need all. the. tools. to be able to work with leather. Leather isn’t easy to shape without tools and (a little bit) of brute force, and unless you have all. the. tools. it isn’t going to be easy to find motivation to work.

Another thing I forgot when I got into this, is that it’s a hard craft. You need a sturdy son of a bitch work bench/ table.


  • What kind of glue do you use to stick leather to leather/fabric?

I don’t use any glue, actually. I do rarely find the need for things to stick together like that, but I might use some clamps if I’m working to pad something, i.e., to keep the pieces from flopping around all over the place.

  • How do you know if your finished product is strong enough? And how do you know if the leather you work with is strong enough?

Well, you can always try to hang the halter on something sturdy and put your entire body weight into it. In general, if you use the correct thickness of leather, the right hardware and stitch it the right way (never “across” the length), you’ll be pretty safe. At least 3 (or 3,5) mm thickness for single layer, anything less and you’ll have to double stitch. If you’re afraid it’s going to break, you can always reinforce all corners with nylon.

The more high-risk animal you are making tack for, the safer you need your tack. A stallion halter is super heavy-duty. Draft halters are heavy-duty. Not all tack needs or should be heavy-duty.

When you’re at the store to buy leather and hardware, tell the staff what you’re going to use it for and they’ll help you find the correct stuff. So far I haven’t had any of my own tack break on me, but a lot of store bough tack have, the main difference in quality has this far been the buckles, actually. I have rarely experienced leather to break, it’s “always” poor quality buckles or seam sown on machine.


  • Does it damage your hands/fingers?

It’s going to hurt in the beginning, because it is indeed pretty hard on your hands. However, the more you do it (as long as you don’t over-do it, and take breaks when you need to), the stronger your muscles and tendons will get, and the thicker the skin on your thumbs will get.

That being said, not everyone has a body to handle everything. So far, I haven’t had a lot of issues, and as long as you have enough tools, you won’t hurt yourself all that much. Unless you drop a scalpel and catch it on the sharp end. Been there, done that. It hurts.

  • Where do you buy your supplies?

The heavier the supply, the more local you want it. An entire piece of leather is actually pretty heavy, and shipping costs would be insane if you were to buy from another end of your country, or even from another country. I buy my leather and most of my tools from Skinnlåven, a fairly local store for me.

Buckles, ornaments and other stuff that Skinnlåven doesn’t have, I order online from all over the world. Just google around and you’ll find stuff 🙂


I hope I was able to answer your questions! And again, if you did send me a Q and you didn’t find you A, it’s because I most likely already answered it in round one! Link here! Beware, it’s a rant and a half in there as well 😛

If more questions come pouring in, I will of course do a part 3. Please remember I am still a newbie in this – I am still learning by doing at the moment.




Klesarven photo shoot

Reklame/in collaboration with Klesarven!

Okay, I’ve grown more and more accepting of standing in front of the camera alongside of Lillen and our other horses, which is funny because that confidence has grown probably because of Instagram. But being in front of the camera WITHOUT a horse? That was a new experience.


Klesarven is a Norwegian company, selling historically inspired clothing. Most of the clothes are inspired from the Viking Age, but they also have other pieces inspired by other time periods, and they are perhaps most famous for their amazeballs riding skirt.

However, no riding skirts were on the schedule for today, only linen dresses, apron/harness dresses, hoods and bling!

I’ve previously “only” tried out their riding pieces, both the skirt and the riding dress, so being able to wear their other dresses was a really nice experience. I have to say; the red and black combination really intruiges me. I know it isn’t historically accurate, but screw that! Although… My entire life I’ve fallen back to the red and black combination, perhaps I should just push myself outta that comfort zone and try something else… Hmmm…










Silver or brass? 😉

Lagertha linen dress (the blue, white and black dress)
Anna harnes/apron dress (red)
Skjoldehamn viking hood
Brooches, bling, belts and bags